How to Automate

I’m not surprised about CQC. It’s been a sleeping dragon for 20 years. Great system but complex and until recently was expensive. Now it’s free.

Yes Allonis MyServer. They sell it for DIY but they are really geared towards custom/pro installers. The owners are great guys though.

Bingo. Those who did/do that have a lot less problems if any compared to those general users who can’t write their own and rely on something they purchased to… uhh… work?

Very smart. I highly recommend that approach and on custom installs I only use same manufacturer for devices. Contact sensors all same vendor, switches, all same vendor, etc. Example I only do Lutron lighting. I won’t install Z-Wave for lighting. I do use Z-Wave for outlets, plugs and Contact Sensors. Zigbee is less common for general purpose. Control 4 is all Zigbee but their own custom ZCL. Hue is everywhere of course. Most remotes are Zigbee or Wifi with some still being IR/RF only but not many.

Them finally adding firmware upgrade into the system was a great benefit.

I have not actually. Are they twist rod for open close or pull string or something? Likely be able to automate them in a very similar fashion to retrofitting existing blinds though.

You kind of just user your hand to tilt them. All the slats are attached at the back via a rod so they all open. I have them through my main floor and have been looking for some time of easy automation.

Just saw a video of a guy automating this with a switch bot.

Personally I wouldn’t use a remote at all for this type of use case. It’s just another device you have to keep next to you or go get from the shelf all the time. Better to simply use a widgit or dashboard on my phone which is always at my side :smile: - dedicated button to do whatever you want with lights and control my Sony Android TV via the excellent Rest integration, from you know where.

I did a google search and came up with this:
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/2070556083/shuttereaze-home-automation-for-your-plantation-sh

Automating shutters is a new one for me. I’m not aware of anything off-the-shelf for this besides some expensive powered shutters which is overkill when you already have shutters. I’m going to have to give this some thought. I think the switchbot idea in a larger arm setup would work.

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Then I take it you don’t use any TV/Cable/Streamer (roku firetv) remotes at all then? That’s great. So how do you automate this scenario?

Quote the scenario and provide your solution for others to learn from.

From what I saw, they (shutter automation) sucked up all the Kickstarter money–then vanished. :frowning:

Yeah… sucks… I went back and started reading more and checking it out looking for a contact and read through the comments… yet another failed KS that took the money and provided nothing.

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Kickstarter campaigns should just be considered pledge drives that may or may not get around to sending your chosen “gift” for your contribution one day.

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That is understandable…but people would generally tolerate it better if there was some communication. Even if it wasn’t great news.

When a project just goes “radio silent” one day, shortly after getting the entire pile of money and when the last communication sounded optimistic–well, that makes it more reasonable to assume less than pure motives may have been involved.

Of course, it’s hard to come out to a bunch of folks and say what needs to be said–something like: “Well, we have been trying our hardest to develop this product, but the costs and efforts have vastly exceeded our expectations. At this point, it appears that we’ve unfortunately exhausted our resources. We are deeply sorry that this didn’t turn out like any of us expected or desired. At this stage, unfortunately all we can do is offer a profound apology. While that may ring hollow to some, we would rather take our lumps up front than to give any false hopes or try to gather more money for something that isn’t likely to be possible.”

Maybe you quit reading after the first sentence? Let me help you.

“Better to simply use a widgit or dashboard on my phone which is always at my side - dedicated button to do whatever you want with lights and control my Sony Android TV via the excellent Rest integration, from you know where”

Let me know if you need any additional, specific information.

As a reply to the original question - I think an Alexa routine might do it if you have Harmony skill set up (and your lights too). I don’t have one going now so I can’t test. But via Harmony skill she’s definitely capable of pausing a cable box/streaming/DVD device.

I just moved to a larger house with a moderate sized Control4 system. My old house was a mix of Hubitat, Home Assistant, Harmony, Lutron RadioRA 2, Z-Wave, Zigbee, Sonos. The new house has a few C4 dimmers in addition to the AV control.

This is the key to the value of the system. I am most pleased with the remotes for the reasons stated. They work very well. And can do a lot.

The C4 programming software is great only if you love Novell Netware of the 1990s. I suppose once you get used to it it will do what you want. (And I don’t mind the Lutron RadioRA 2 programming software.)

The functionality I’m most ‘meh’ about is audio distribution. The system works, but I think for most people with families who stream music a Sonos based system is easier to use and more functional. The only issue is that the Sonos amps are high-priced. And C4 only does Apple Music via AirPlay.

The C4 dimmers are fine if a bit ugly. There are some nice things about them and keypads are reasonably priced. But I’m probably going to take them out and replace with RadioRA 2.

As a dealer system the biggest issue is adding devices. And using devices that don’t have drivers. Including all normal Zigbee devices. So I’ll be adding the MQTT-based driver that will allow access to non-supported devices. Both Hubitat and Home Assistant will be coming back. So will Homebridge. Hubitat is still the easiest way to add conditional actions to a RadioRA 2 system.

That’s a nice easy option. But it’s not too hard to solder a couple wires onto an existing Chamberlain controller too.

Nice snark. Maybe leave your snark baggage at the HE forum?

Yes more information is what the point of this thread is. The purpose is to present scenarios and solutions with details on how to achieve it. You’re response of “I use my phone” is lacking on any details of which others might find useful.

So using your phone with some widget or dashboard how do you achieve a solution to the scenario?

I laughed at that one. I know this other Control4 dealer who swears by the C4 switches and thinks they are beautiful and he doesn’t like the RadioRA 2 Maestro switches. Too funny. Myself I also prefer Lutron over C4.

True if you have a spare controller. If not then that site has the cheapest ready to go option out there.

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This is what I do for the MyQ. It works great and is very reliable. And doesn’t rely on the cloud. But it depends on the target audience. Once you mention soldering to people they freak out. They want an out of the box experience while at the same time not spending more money.

I don’t know that’d I freak out. I did however buy everything I needed not that along to prove to myself that I do not have the skill to do it with much hope of success. Lol.

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Practice and patience. Just keep practicing and it will get easier.

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My dealer says one of the reasons to prefer the C4 is for the keypads as they’re $200 cheaper list and the buttons are individually replaceable in the field. That’s a good reason, but I have a few so I won’t need to add too many. The dimmers are neutral optional too, but I think you’re nuts to not use one if you have one.

Here are some instructions
https://forums.lutron.com/showthread.php/987-Chamberline-MYQ-openers-not-compatible-with-RA2-Visor-Control?p=8627#post8627

Cheaper is a good reason to use them :slight_smile: they also help with the Zigbee mesh for the rest of the C4 devices. The NYCE motion sensors for C4 are awesome. Same sensors they sell in ZHA setup for specific for C4.

C4 is a nice system. I don’t currently sell/install it but I have thought about it and mostly more about driver development for it.

Completely agree. If you have a neutral available then use it. Removes lots of the little annoyances with LED bulb differences.

Hmm… seems like everywhere the topic goes side-ways :slight_smile: